Write to Rough Guides, IoS offer, 1 Mercer Street, London WC2H 9QJ. Keep up with the latest developments in travel by subscribing to the free newsletter 'Rough News', published three times yearly. Entry 400ptas (free on Sun).The Royal Tapestry Workshop is located at C/Fuentarrabia 2 (Metro Atocha) and is open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm. Entry 250ptas.Where to goThe address of the Hotel Mnaco is C/Barbieri 5 (tel:522 46 30, Metro Chueca) and the price for a double room is about 10,000ptas.The bars in the streets around Plaza de Santa Ana and Puerta del Sol are some of the best for tapas.The Rastro runs from 10am-3pm every Sunday along C/Ribera de Curtidores and the surrounding streets just south of Plaza Mayor (Metro La Latina).La Venencia is close to Plaza Santa Ana at C/de Echegaray 7 (Metro Sol/Sevilla).Simon Baskett lives and works in Madrid and wrote 'The Mini-Rough Guide to Madrid'.
The mildly grumpy barman will chalk up your bill on the bar.fact fileWhat to seeThe Museo Sorolla is located at Paseo del General Martnez Campos 37 (Metro Iglesia/Ruben Daro) and is open Tues-Sat 10am-3pm and Sun 10am- 2pm. Served from dusty wooden barrels and accompanied by delicious olives or mojama (dry, salted tuna), you might, if you're lucky, even be able to settle into one of the handful of seats at the back and share a bottle while the resident cats drape themselves over the sideboards. A light-hearted and friendly atmosphere prevails, even the ubiquitous pickpockets have smiles on their faces.Most atmospheric barThere are so many great bars to choose from in Madrid, but for sheer atmosphere it's difficult to beat the sherry bar, La Venencia, near Plaza Santa Ana Give the cool dry fino a try. Progress, unsurprisingly, is painfully slow with a square metre of tapestry taking two months. One giant 16th-century Flemish tapestry on show took nearly two generations to complete.Most characterful hotelIn this age of insipid, characterless hotels, the eccentric Hotel Mnaco stands out head and shoulders above the rest. Stepping back into centuries past you can see the 42 highly skilled workers coolly looping handfuls of bobbins around a myriad of strings hanging from the original 18th-century vertical looms, sewing up worn-out masterpieces with exactly matching silk and weaving together hundreds of threads to produce the subtle shades for a new tapestry.
Situated in the former house of the artist Joaqun Sorolla, it's a delight to stumble upon this little oasis of peace and tranquillity in the midst of the traffic-choked streets of downtown Madrid. Best discoveryWhile exploring the quiet side-streets around the stylish Atocha Station, I decided to investigate what was behind the rather uninviting exterior of the Royal Tapestry Workshop. There is a large selection of buoyancy aids which children and beginners are required to wear. There are always at least two boats in service whenever anyone is out.. Most underrated museum In a city blessed with the good fortune of being home to three of the greatest art collections in the world - the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Reina Sofa - the Museo Sorolla gets little attention. However, for me, this tribute to a single artist's life and work is just as rewarding as the more heavyweight attractions. Bar bills are kept on a slate and paid at the end of the holiday - approximate prices include beer pounds 1.30, Retsina pounds 1.50, mineral water/Coke 75p, Lac des Roches wine pounds 5 a bottle.Optional extras: approximate prices water-skiing pounds 10 a session, boat trip to Smugglers' Cove pounds 9, sunset walk pounds 4.A Peligoni Club video is available for a pounds 5 hire charge, returnable when booking or if returned.Equipment and safety: sailing dinghies include two Toppers, a Wayfarer, several Lasers and a Hobie catamaran. Book through high-street travel agents or Peligoni's recommended agent, Haslemere Travel (01428 658777).For most properties it will be necessary to hire a car.
