Take a bottle of good vodka, put it in a large, clean, sealable glass container. Slice into it three lemons and four limes, with the peel removed. Leave it that way, agitating once a day, for two to three weeks Taste it. If it is too tart (and it will be), add around 75ml (5 tablespoons) of light sugar syrup.What about cocktails, the vehicle for Manhattan's current vodka-craze? I'm inclined to agree with the guys at Tsar's Bar, who say that if you like these drinks you don't need to mix them. A sip was enough, but the balance of flavours was just right.
Apparently this is the favourite of both Chris Evans and Paul Gascoigne, which may say a great deal about it.Explorations in flavour can be pursued at other London venues. Among bars, the Babushka (0171 928 3693) has a good range of which many are home-flavoured. The Dogstar (0171 733 7515), mentioned last week, is also a good source. Among restaurants you'll do well at the excellent Wdka (0171 937 6513) and at the long-established Anna's Place (0171 249 9379).If you want to buy the stuff for home, you may need to do some hunting round As usual, Londoners will have the easiest time of it. One of the best selections is that of venerable Soho merchant Gerry's (0171 734 2053). They sell around 30, both standard bestsellers such as the ultra-dry Zubrwka Bison Grass (pounds 14.25) and unusual items like Rebeka Orange Kosher Vodka from Poland (pounds 15.50).
You can also take a chance on the light Italian vodkas, this range produced by Luidka and including "Gusto Mou" (toffee) and Melone (both 27 per cent and pounds 10.95 for 70cl). Staff seem to have tasted most of what's on offer, and their guidance is useful.Gerry's also sells the flavoured range from Wyborowa, makers of one of the best vodkas widely sold in the UK. I've sampled all of them, and the lemon and orange, predictably enough, are best of all. The two citrus flavours make a perfect match with the oily smoothness of Wyborowa, and these bottles can be viewed as pre-mixed cocktails: remove from freezer, pour into small glass, with or without ice, and drink. They're sold for pounds 13 to pounds 14, and are available from other London outlets (including Soho Wines and Corney & Barrow) as well as Gerry's.The Tsar's Bar formula for lemon-lime vodka is a good one for people wanting to do a bit of DIY vodka-doctoring. Best of all was the bar's own lemon-lime vodka sweetened with a little gomme (sugar) syrup.
